For skincare aficionados, Retinol is a familiar name. This potent active ingredient is highly sought after for its efficacy in achieving a glowing and refined complexion.
Many skincare users combine retinol products with other active ingredients to maximize their results.
However, it’s crucial to remember that retinol is a sensitive ingredient and can potentially interact with other components in your skincare regimen.
Using retinol concurrently with certain active ingredients can lead to undesirable skin reactions. Therefore, to prevent adverse skin concerns, let’s understand which active ingredients should not be mixed with retinol.
Retinol Chemical Structure1. AHA?
AHA stands for Alpha Hydroxy Acid, a water-soluble acid derived from sources like fruits, animals, or synthesized.
This compound is commonly used in skincare as an exfoliating agent to slough off dead skin cells, revealing smoother, more luminous skin. Popular examples of AHAs include glycolic acid (from sugarcane), lactic acid (from milk), and citric acid (from citrus fruits).
According to Dr. Zeichner, Director of Cosmetic and Clinical Research in Dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City, as reported by Prevention, while retinol and AHAs can be complementary, they can also cause irritation or chemical burns by thinning the skin’s outer layer, rendering it more susceptible to sun damage.
It is generally advised to avoid using retinol and AHAs simultaneously, as both can lead to irritation and increased photosensitivity.
2. BHA?
BHA stands for Beta Hydroxy Acid, an exfoliating ingredient frequently found in skincare products. The most common BHA is salicylic acid, a lipophilic compound capable of penetrating pores and exfoliating the skin from within.
BHA is often utilized to treat acne, blackheads, and other skin conditions, as it can help unclog pores and reduce inflammation, as noted by Paula’s Choice.
Similar to AHAs, BHA ingredients should not be combined with retinol. As reported by Glow Recipe, BHA ingredients, such as salicylic acid, can penetrate pores and exfoliate the skin, making it more vulnerable to sun damage.
According to the Victorian Dermal Group, retinol can accelerate skin cell turnover, which also contributes to increased photosensitivity. This is why using both concurrently can result in excessive peeling, irritation, and a heightened risk of sunburn.
3. VITAMIN C?
Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that plays a vital role in skin health. According to Kiehl’s, Vitamin C provides antioxidant protection against free radicals, helps shield the skin from UV radiation, and boosts the production of essential compounds linked to skin elasticity.
Topical application of Vitamin C is paramount, as only a small fraction of it penetrates the skin.
While it’s often suggested to use Vitamin C and retinol together to enhance efficacy, it’s crucial to be mindful of concentration and frequency of use to prevent irritation.
According to Exponen Beauty, another reason retinol and Vitamin C are not recommended for simultaneous use is that retinol requires a higher pH, closer to the skin’s natural pH (around 5.0 to 6), whereas Vitamin C functions optimally at an acidic pH (3.5 or lower).
When mixed, the pH of Vitamin C increases, and the pH of retinol decreases, rendering both products less effective. To harness the benefits of both active ingredients, as advised by Byrdie, it’s recommended to use Vitamin C in the morning and retinol at night.
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